Today, we feature 2 patterns for the White Miller Caddis, a hatch that is seen on the Firehole in the fall.  Previous posts about the White Miller include the Carpet Caddis and the TK-421.

Both of these patterns are from Blue Ribbon Flies, one dry and one not so dry.

White Miller Soft Hackle

White Miller Soft Hackle

• Hook: Wet fly hook, size 14
• Tail/Shuck: White Zelon
• Body: White or Cream dubbing
• Thorax: Tan dubbing
• Hackle: Partridge

White Miller X-Caddis

White Miller X-Caddis

• Hook: Dry Fly hook: TMC 100 or equivalent, 14
• Shuck: Caddis Gold Zelon
• Body: Polar bear zelon dubbing
• Hackle: White or cream dry fly hackle, undersized or trimmed
• Wing: Light colored elk

Luckily, we have cream colored carpet at the cabin. Long story short, the carpet fibers made a good underwing. We caught fish the next day with the carpet caddis.

I’ve since learned that it was the White Miller caddis those afternoons, and now have some specialized patterns to match. However, I still remember those carpet caddis flies.

Don’t want to sacrifice your carpet? Use Zelon instead.

Carpet Caddis

Carpet Caddis

• Hook: Tiemco 100, size 14 or 16
• Body: Cream colored dubbing
• Underwing: Cream Zelon or shag carpet fibers
• Overwing: 2 Partridge feathers
• Hackle: Grizzly

Glass Bead Caddis Pupa

Glass Bead Caddis Pupa

• Hook: Pupa hook, size 16 (TMC 2487)
• Body: 4 olive seed beads, size 11/0, secured with a thread bump and a drop of zap-a-gap
• Antenna: Mallard or Wood Duck
• Collar: Grey Ostrich

If you are not familiar with Rene’ Harrop’s patterns, he is a master fly tyer and the guy behind The TroutHunter on Henry’s Fork. In my opinion, his selection & quality of CDC feathers are the best.

Henry's Fork Caddis

Henry’s Fork Caddis

• Hook: Tiemco 101BL, size 14
• Body: Stripped peacock herl (a light coat of zap-a-gap on the hook helps durability)
• Wing: Dark Dun CDC
• Overwing: a few partridge fibers (about a dozen)
• Thorax: Peacock
• Hackle: Dun saddle (Grizzly works also)

This is a slight variation, using a stripped peacock body instead of biot like Mr. Harrop uses.  I used the peacock to have a darker body. Also, the Harrop original has more of a 50/50 proportion between the body and thorax.

As most of these start off, lay down a thread base.

Tie in the stripped peacock herl, then build a slight taper with the thread. Before wrapping the peacock forward, apply a thin coat of glue to the thread to improve durability. This one uses zap-a-gap.

Select 2 dark dun CDC feathers and tie in as the under-wing.

Add an over-wing of a single partridge feather.  I used ruffled grouse here because it was handy.

Prepare for the thorax by tying in a couple peacock herls and a size 14 dry fly hackle.  This one uses a dun saddle.  The Harrop pattern calls for a dun dyed grizzly. A drop of glue wouldn’t hurt at this point.

Wind the peacock foward and tie off.

Wind the hackle through the thorax, 3-5 wraps.

Tie off the head, and trim the hackle on the bottom to be even with the hook point.  This allows the fly to ride low in the water.  I have to admit, though, most times I don’t trim the hackle and give it a try. If I’m not getting hits, then I will trim on the river with my nippers.

Here is the completed Henry’s Fork Caddis in a darker, Mother’s Day Caddis, variation.

Hook: Tiemco 902BL, size 14
Thread: 70 denier black
Body: Stripped peacock herl
Underwing: 2 CDC feathers
Overwing: Partridge (or grouse or quail)
Thorax: Peacock
Hackle: Dun saddle or neck

Before:

After:

In late June, early July, the Damsels start coming.   Look towards the western side of the lake.

Leeches